For so many years, I envisioned my foray into the Middle East beginning in Israel. Not Jordan, not Egypt, not Oman, or Qatar, or Lebanon, and not the United Arab Emirates.
I always held back from these countries as I desired to honor the Birthplace of Jesus Christ, by visiting Israel first.

This summer, I actually made it to Israel. It was a longtime coming as I’d been egged on by the Israeli jewelers I met at Antwerp’s Diamond quarter, as well as memories of a failed 2021 visit to Eilat. I finally landed at Ben Gurion airport mid-July 2023. By my research, I found out that the country was described as a tiny strip. So tiny, they say you can traverse the whole country, top to bottom in six hours and East to West in two hours. I found no need to do so as I wanted to slow travel through three places; Tel-Aviv, Haifa and Jerusalem. (We didn’t make it to Haifa but we visited a hotel in Ein-Bokek by the Dead Sea).

Once in Israel, I started my trip in Tel-Aviv.
Big mistake. For me.
You see going to Israel demands you examine why you’re really there, then get to the business of being there because it costs a pretty penny or rather a pretty shekel to be there. Israel is expensive.
Being asked that question by border security when my passport demanded I step aside for this purpose made me conjur an answer real quick.
“I’m a faith tourist!” I blurted out. “A Christian who just wants to walk where Jesus walked. See what Jesus saw.”

One of the Old Testament prophets Ezekiel gives an account of a vision he had where he beheld the four living creatures (Cherubim) around the throne of God.  Prophet Ezekiel describes each of the living creatures as having four faces; the face of a man, the face of a lion, the face of an ox and the face of an eagle.

I point out this reference because the State of Israel cannot be captured as one thing. As you traverse the length and breath of it, you encounter diversity as never before, an intense country with a myriad of faces.

A view of the Tel-Aviv coastline.

Tel-Aviv is the face of hedonism. An urban secular city that thrums with night life. The locals here are cultured and sophisticated. Dotted around the city are boutiques that are a fashionista’s dream, as well art galleries where one can purchase fine art pieces. The Tel-Aviv Museum of Art along Shaul Hamelech Street stands as a testament to this.

Art gallery along Old Jaffa.

Tel-Aviv’s beaches call you out to play, jog or just florick in the water. The waves ebb and flow so powerfully that your strokes are sliced, you sputter out sea-water and get tossed about like a rag doll. You can take a breather by lying down on the sandy beach, inhaling the fishy-marine scent of it.

Miss Ashley walking along the Charles Clore Beach.

You can indulge in the many eateries along the beach like the Old Man and the Sea. The waiters there are friendly and come by with a platter having many saucers of a variety of salads and humus, and with Pita bread to accompany your main course whether it is chicken or roast lamb that melts in your mouth. Then there is Asil Cafe and bar a few feet away, that guarantees a good time by offering free shots anytime you buy a drink and post it on your Instagram.

A meal at the Old Man and the Sea Close to Jaffa port.

We stumbled upon a whale sculpture as we walked around the Port of Jaffa. It instantly reminded us of Jonah. It was in Joppa (present day Jaffa) that Jonah boarded a ship enroute to Tarshish. He was running from God, who had directed him to go preach to the people at Nineveh.

Sitting in front of the Jonah’s whale statue, Old Town Jaffa.

Speaking of Bible stories, I was in absolute awe walking through the Jerusalem Bus station as I looked at the stops; actual places I’ve read about in the Bible; Ashdod, Ashkelon, Hebron, Ein-Gedi, Bethesda, Nazareth, Bethlehem. These places are real!

Driving to the Garden of Gethsemane, Jerusalem.

The topography of Jerusalem is vastly different from that of Tel-Aviv. While it is a city on the hills with many twists and turns, Tel-Aviv is a flat coastal city. While Tel-Aviv is secular, Jerusalem is referred to as the Holy City by the faithfuls of the three major Abrahamic religions; Judaism, Christianity and Islam. One is constantly reminded of King David, his name holds a certain ubiquity there. Jerusalem has been known as the ‘City of David’ for more than 3000 years, and as one walks around Israel’s capital, you are likely to bump into a luxurious hotel named after King David, the Tower of David, the Tomb of David and so forth. God has continued to keep the memory of His servant David alive for many generations, Jesus was from the line of David. Jesus’s birthplace is fifteen minutes away by car (Bethlehem). We drove there and crossed a checkpoint. Israeli citizens are not permitted to cross over to Palestine but tourists can cross freely.

The other major sites one must make time for while in Jerusalem are; the Holy Sepulchre, The Garden of Gethsemane, the Western Wall, Via Dolorosa and the Empty Tomb (because Christ is risen.)

At the Garden of Gethsemane.

At the Garden of Gethsemane.

One thing that cost us time was Shabbat. Shabbat in Israel begins at sun-down on Friday and ends at sun-down on Saturday.
Nothing is open, because Shabbat is the Jewish day of rest. Observant Jews do not work during Shabbat and this extends to using electronic equipment, driving cars, and cooking.

Photoshoot by Hannah, in Jerusalem.

Is Israel really safe? Was one question I got on social media as I gave a minute-by-minute account of my travel there. We felt quite safe as we traveled around the country. There were strident security measures in some places, having our bags go through machines at train and bus stations in Tel-Aviv and Jerusalem, and as well on entry and exit the country.

Security at Jerusalem Bus Station

Security guard with his dog at Terminal 2, Tel-Aviv Airport

We came at a time the country was in the throes of a political crisis polarising the State. There were demonstrations and rallies, and on occasion the tour bus and taxis had to take detours to avoid the traffic snarl-ups that ensued. The crisis was about judicial reform proposed by the current government that according to the opposition might undermine Israeli democracy. In the undercurrents is a deeper struggle over what Israel should look like and whether it should take the face of a modern secular liberal democracy or of a highly nationalistic and religiously conservative state. While this division has always simmered, it is threatening to blow over and divide Israeli society. The politics have very real economic consequences, the income disparities are stark, the majority of the population works very hard but earn very little, in one of the most expensive places to live in.

Masada Fortress, Masada.

A briefing by our tour guide at the entry of Ein-Gedi National Park.

Our tour to Masada, Ein-Gedi and the Dead Sea was sponsored by Tourist Israel. During that tour, we made friends with many coming on a faith pilgrimage. Some said it was their fifth time to visit. I’m certain that my first trip to Israel isn’t my last. I plan to come and cover more of the State of Israel.

Breakfast at Oasis Spa Club Hotel.

Hannah’s Instagram link: https://instagram.com/hana_malamudman?igshid=MWZjMTM2ODFkZg==

Intercity bus service: Egged

Food delivery app:https://wolt.com/en/isr

The uber of Israel is GETT:
https://www.gett.com/il/

For transportation around Israel: trams, buses, metro, one needs the Rav Kav:
https://ravkavonline.co.il/en/

Or you can rent a car and drive through Israel using Google maps.